WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Seiko’s “Vampire”: The Underworld Icon with a Cult Following and Mechanical Soul

The Seiko ‘Vampire’ watch: why the undead are finally having their horological moment. Some watches tell time, others tell a story. And then there’s the Seiko ‘Vampire’ – a piece so dripping with character it might as well come with garlic repellent and a coffin-shaped box. A product of both enthusiast-led modification culture and Seiko’s own sly nods to its design archives, the ‘Vampire’ has quietly become one of the most compelling talking points in watch circles today.

Mod culture has been part of Seiko’s DNA for decades—perhaps unintentionally at first, but now very much by design (pun mildly intended). The Japanese brand’s dependable SKX and SRPD series, with their bulletproof movements and affordable price tags, became blank canvases for tinkerers the world over. What began as simple bezel swaps and custom dials has exploded into a full-blown subculture, complete with aftermarket suppliers, fan pages, and builds that blur the line between homage and high art.

Modders, many of them self-taught, often go deep: vintage Kanji day wheels, weathered patina, lumed chapter rings—you name it. While purists scoff, the modding world has helped keep Seiko’s mechanical legacy in the zeitgeist, injecting creativity and a sense of community into the watch world that’s often dominated by sterile prestige.

Enter the Vampire

Somewhere in that dark, delightful rabbit hole emerged the so-called ‘Vampire’ mod. The recipe? A matte black case, blood-red chapter ring, matching handset, and typically a crimson seconds hand that ticks like it’s on the hunt. Often built around the beloved SKX007 or its SRPD successor, the mod isn’t officially recognised by Seiko—but that hasn’t stopped it from earning cult status.

You’ll spot versions with coffin-shaped hour markers, blood-splatter textured dials, and even date wheels in gothic fonts. The effect is dramatic but wearable, gothic but playful. It’s not cosplay for your wrist, nor a gimmick. It’s a surprisingly tasteful fusion of thematic design and real watchmaking substance.

Mod culture legitimised, and a name to know

What’s intriguing is how Seiko has, perhaps knowingly, embraced the energy of this underground scene through initiatives like the Seiko Power Design Project – a series that hands creative freedom to in-house designers. And that’s where Yu Ishihara comes in.

A respected designer within Seiko’s ranks, Ishihara has played a central role in bridging the gap between enthusiast imagination and official recognition. His work often dances along the edge of playful irreverence and rigorous detail, and with the Vampire concept, he’s created something with bite.

The ultimate Vampire: Seiko’s Power Design Project 2025

In 2025, Ishihara unveiled the Vampire-Exclusive Watch as part of Seiko’s Power Design Project; a concept piece that elevates the mod into something theatrically refined. This is no ordinary timepiece. The 24-hour dial only shows the hours between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m., for those who truly come alive after sunset. The rotating bezel, inlaid with a gradient of red crystals, lets wearers track time since their last ‘feeding’. This cheeky touch that manages to be both luxurious and lore-driven.

The watch case features fang-like lugs, a deep crimson dial, and a black leather strap shaped to resemble bat wings. Around the back, a translucent red caseback reveals the mechanical movement within. And while this concept watch isn’t slated for production, it has captivated fans across design blogs and forums alike. Ishihara’s creation is both a commentary and celebration, a rare case of fan culture made flesh by the brand itself.

It’s proof that Seiko, for all its heritage and scale, still knows how to have fun.

Style with substance

Of course, a blood-red chapter ring doesn’t make a great watch on its own. What underpins the Vampire’s appeal is that it’s still a Seiko at heart. Most builds use tried-and-tested automatic calibres like the 7S26 or 4R36, and the cases are typically 42.5mm of solid stainless steel, offering 100m or more of water resistance.

That means you can wear it on Halloween, sure, but also on your daily commute, weekend hike, or even – if you’re feeling brave – into the boardroom. Like any good vampire, it blends in until it’s time to strike.

What’s next for the undead?

Whether Seiko ever fully leans into a mass-produced Vampire edition remains to be seen. For now, enthusiasts will continue to build their own, and designers like Ishihara will keep teasing the boundaries of what’s possible.

But what’s certain is this: the Vampire watch has reminded us that horology isn’t just about heritage and precision – it’s about imagination. About myth. About making something deeply personal, whether you’re the one building it or just the one wearing it.

So next time you see a splash of red on someone’s wrist, look a little closer. It might not just be a Seiko. It might be a story.

The origins of the clan

There are watches you admire, and then there are watches that stalk you. The so-called Seiko Vampire belongs squarely in the latter camp. It doesn’t announce itself in gold or diamonds, but there’s something unmistakably seductive about it—a moody red hand sweeping across a blackened dial, fang-like lume markers that glint like sharpened teeth in low light, and the aura of a watch that seems far more alive at night.

Let’s get this out of the way early: there is no official Seiko model named “Vampire.” This is not a line you’ll find on the brand’s website or boxed in boutiques. Rather, “Vampire” is an enthusiast nickname applied primarily to the SKX009J, and in some circles, the SKX173 and even the Prospex SPB107 or SPB183. But what began as a fan-based epithet has grown into a genre-defining identity – an informal but potent badge of myth, design, and legacy.

Where it all began

The SKX series needs no introduction among serious collectors. Released in the mid-1990s and produced until 2019, the SKX007 and SKX009 became gateway watches for budding horologists and forever-pieces for tool watch purists. The SKX009J—where the “J” denotes Japan-made—is where the “Vampire” nickname took root.

Why? The visual cues. The red on the diver’s bezel, in natural light, the it looks like arterial red—striking, vital, and faintly dangerous. Second, the hour markers, especially on the SKX173 (a U.S.-only variant), appear more angular than circular, with sharp triangular lume at 12 and rectangular teeth marking the cardinal points. They glow like canines under moonlight. And finally, the stark contrast between jet-black dial and matte steel case gives the piece a lurking, almost predatory charm.

Add it all together, and you’ve got a tool diver with unmistakable vampire energy—blood, fangs, and the dark. The name was inevitable.

Beating heart of a night creature

At its core, the SKX “Vampire” beats with the Seiko 7S26 automatic movement, an in-house calibre introduced in 1996 and discontinued in 2019. It’s not haute horlogerie, but its architecture is a masterclass in pragmatic engineering:

  • 21 jewels
  • 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 beats per second)
  • Power reserve: approx. 41 hours
  • No hand-winding or hacking

It’s an unpretentious workhorse, powered by a bidirectional magic lever rotor system. While many snub the absence of manual winding and hacking, this was a deliberate decision by Seiko to increase robustness and minimise service needs. In fact, these movements are often referred to as “tractors”—simple, low-maintenance, and astonishingly long-lived. Some owners report 20 years of near-daily wear with no servicing and only minor time loss.

Later Prospex models associated with the “Vampire” mood, like the SPB107, upgrade the internals to the 6R15 or 6R35—movements with longer reserves (50–70 hours), hacking, and hand-winding. They also offer improved anti-magnetic resistance and tighter tolerances. These models retain the aura of their predecessors while lifting the mechanical game significantly.

LumiBrite – The scientific afterglow

What truly sets the Vampire apart in aesthetic terms is the lume. Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite isn’t just decoration—it’s one of the most advanced non-radioactive luminous paints available. Unlike older tritium or radium-based compounds, LumiBrite is completely safe and relies on strontium aluminate crystals doped with europium.

This allows:

  • Rapid charge time (seconds in sunlight or artificial light)
  • Bright, consistent glow lasting 5–8 hours
  • High efficiency with very low fade

And here’s the clincher: the shape and size of the lume plots are what give the “Vampire” its fangs. On the SKX173, the lume is sharply triangular at 12, with rectangular incisor-style plots at 6 and 9. Under LumiBrite, these shapes pop—and they aren’t subtle. They’re aggressive, pointed, and unmistakably nocturnal.

Dive watch with a dark intent

Most “Vampire” watches live in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, with a thickness of 13.25mm and lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm. On paper, it’s large—but Seiko’s ergonomic lugs and balanced weight (approx. 170g on bracelet) make it deceptively wearable, even on slimmer wrists.

The unidirectional bezel, often in a pepsi (blue and red) or stealthy black variant, offers 120 clicks with firm tactile feedback. The screw-down crown is placed at 4 o’clock—an intentional design decision to protect the wrist and avoid snags. And yes, it’s ISO 6425-certified, meaning it’s a true diver in every sense: tested for water resistance (200m), shock, and resistance to magnetic interference.

As for glass, you’ll find Hardlex—Seiko’s proprietary hardened mineral crystal. While not as scratch-resistant as sapphire, it’s better at handling impact, another nod to real-world durability.

Who dares wear the Vampire?

This isn’t a showboater’s watch. You won’t see it paired with double monk straps or boardroom suits in Mayfair. The Seiko Vampire is for the quiet disruptor. The creative who wears function like armour. The collector who prizes meaning over market hype.

There’s a growing niche of watch enthusiasts who cherish this model for its understated darkness. It’s not overtly gothic or horror-inspired, but there’s an undeniable narrative tension. It looks best on black NATO or distressed leather straps, worn with denim, boots, and quiet confidence. You won’t find it dangling from a yacht; you’ll find it under the cuff at a Berlin warehouse party or on the wrist of a design director sketching by candlelight.

Mod culture and resurrection

As mentioned earlier in the article, the art of the Vampire’s allure is its modding potential. Seiko’s SKX series is a darling of the aftermarket mod scene, with entire communities built around swapping bezels, hands, chapter rings, and crystals. Some embrace the “Vampire” theme full-bloodedly—red sapphire casebacks, fang-shaped hour hands, blood-splatter dials, gothic numerals, even blade or coffin-shaped indices.

Want to go full Dracula? Commission a build with DLC-coated case, red ceramic bezel, gothic cathedral hands, and coffin dial. The parts exist. The subculture is thriving. The Vampire doesn’t just live—it transforms.

Price of immortality

Despite its cult status, the original Seiko “Vampire” remains relatively accessible. The SKX009J can be found on secondary markets between £300 and £500, with New Old Stock (NOS) and Japan-only variants fetching higher premiums. Modded examples vary wildly, depending on the depth of work.

The newer SPB models like the SPB107 (a.k.a. “Black Series”) cost upward of £700 to £1,000, but deliver superior movements and specs while retaining the dark, brooding aesthetic. Either way, you’re buying into a piece of cultural design, not just a spec sheet.

And that’s the legacy: a watch born of industrial intent, reimagined by fan folklore, and elevated by its refusal to follow rules. In a world of artificial scarcity and manufactured exclusivity, the Seiko Vampire earned its legend the old way—through presence, performance, and personality.

Bloodlines and rivals

Feature / ModelSKX009J (Japan)SKX173 (US)SPB107 (Prospex Black Series)
Release EraMid-1990s to 2019Mid-1990s to 20192020 (Limited Edition)
Nickname“Pepsi Vampire”“Vampire Fang Dial”“Modern Vampire / Blackout”
Case MaterialStainless SteelStainless SteelStainless Steel (Black DLC)
Case Size42.5mm diameter42.5mm diameter44mm diameter
Lug to Lug46mm46mm50mm
Thickness13.25mm13.25mm13.2mm
Lume StyleCircular plots, red minute tipTriangular & rectangular plotsExtra-bright LumiBrite on dark dial
DialGloss black or navyMatte blackMatte black
BezelPepsi (blue/red) aluminiumBlack or dark navy aluminiumBlack ceramic
Movement7S26 automatic7S26 automatic6R15 automatic
Jewels / Frequency21 jewels, 21,600 vph21 jewels, 21,600 vph23 jewels, 21,600 vph
Power Reserve~41 hours~41 hours~50 hours
Hacking / Hand-WindingNo / NoNo / NoYes / Yes
CrystalHardlex mineralHardlex mineralSapphire with AR coating
Water Resistance200m (ISO Diver’s Certified)200m (ISO Diver’s Certified)200m (ISO Diver’s Certified)
Crown Position4 o’clock (screw-down)4 o’clock (screw-down)4 o’clock (screw-down)
Bracelet / StrapJubilee / RubberRubber or NATOSilicone rubber strap
Modding PopularityExtremely highExtremely highLow (limited edition)
MSRP (at launch)~$200 USD~$220 USD~$850 USD
Current Market Price£300–£500 (varies)£350–£600 (rare variant)£800–£1,200 (limited)
Vampire AppealRed tip + Pepsi dramaFang-like lume + stealth dialBlackout stealth, enhanced lume

Collector’s Tip: The SKX173 is the rarest of the trio, thanks to its US-only distribution and distinctive fang-like lume plots. The SPB107 offers the most refined mechanics and finishing, but lacks the pure ‘90s tool watch charm. The SKX009J remains the most modifiable and accessible point of entry into the Vampire club.

Coffin, but make it custom

Seiko never named it. They didn’t have to. The Vampire emerged organically—from shadows, from stories, from the shape of its lume and the colour of its hands. It’s the kind of timepiece that makes you lean closer in low light, that whispers rather than shouts, that lingers long after you’ve looked away.

And like all true creatures of the night, it doesn’t age—it evolves.

Further information:

https://www.seikowatches.com

https://www.seiko-design.com/powerdesignproject2025/en/vampire.html

For modders: https://www.seikomods.com

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