WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Crossing time zones: rediscovering Citizen for the modern traveller

Citizen occupies a different corner of the watch market from the independent makers and traditional houses we usually write about, and it earns its place here for one reason: it is brilliant at doing exactly the job it was built to do.

If you travel regularly, the requirements of a watch narrow considerably. It does not need a tourbillon, a hand-finished movement visible through a sapphire caseback, or a demonstrated grasp of perpetual against annual calendars. It needs to keep accurate time, cope with a change of location, survive being worn for days on end, and ask as little of its owner as possible. This is the territory where Citizen’s engineering becomes genuinely interesting, and nowhere more so than in its Satellite Wave GPS watches, the most advanced expression of everything the brand has built toward.

The company’s origins go back to 1918, when Kamekichi Yamazaki established the Shokosha Watch Research Institute with the ambition of developing Japanese watchmaking at a time when imported watches dominated the domestic market. The first watch to carry the Citizen name appeared in 1924, its name supplied by Tokyo mayor Shinpei Goto, and Citizen Watch Company was formally established in 1930. From the outset the company’s proposition was different: Citizen was not built to sell exclusivity. Its name suggested something belonging to ordinary people, and its ambition was to make reliable watches accessible to a much wider audience. More than a century later, that ambition remains central to understanding the brand, and it explains why Citizen has spent decades developing technologies that solve fairly mundane problems rather than technologies designed to impress.

That engineering did not arrive fully formed. Citizen introduced the Crystron Solar Cell in 1976, the light-powered technology that eventually became Eco-Drive, and followed it in 1993 with what it describes as the world’s first multi-band radio-controlled watch, later combined with Eco-Drive so the watch could correct itself against a terrestrial atomic signal. Radio control has a real limitation, though: reception depends on the model, the signal and the surrounding environment, and it does not reach evenly across the globe. Citizen’s answer was to leave the ground behind altogether.

Satellite Wave, introduced in 2011 as Citizen’s first light-powered satellite-synchronised watch, replaces ground-based radio transmitters with GPS satellites orbiting roughly 20,000 kilometres above the earth. The watch carries a GPS receiver antenna within the movement, which captures date, time and location data directly from those satellites, and it can update itself either automatically or with a manual press of the crown, provided it has a clear line of sight to the sky. The current Caliber F950, Citizen’s most advanced Satellite Wave GPS movement, receives a signal in as little as three seconds, the fastest claimed reception speed in the category, and holds an autonomous accuracy of plus or minus five seconds a month even before any satellite correction is applied. Its predecessor, the F900, works on the same principle at a marginally slower reception speed.

This is where the appeal of the technology becomes concrete rather than theoretical. A Satellite Wave GPS watch covers world time across 27 cities and 40 time zones, and its Double Direct Flight function lets the wearer display two of them at once, home and local, switching between them with the crown rather than resetting the watch entirely. A full charge, achieved through ordinary daylight or artificial light, can run the movement for up to five years in power-saving mode if the watch is left unworn and out of light, which matters far less to a daily wearer than the more basic fact that there is no battery to fail mid-trip and no need to hunt down a watchmaker in an unfamiliar city. Land in Tokyo after departing London, and the watch can establish the correct time on its own; select Singapore or Los Angeles instead, and it does the same. The technology also underpins Citizen’s perpetual calendar and chronograph complications on higher models, since a watch that always knows the correct date has no difficulty carrying a calendar that runs to the year 2100 without adjustment.

The Attesa Satellite Wave GPS CC4104-53E shows what this looks like at a more premium level. It combines the GPS movement with Eco-Drive, a Super Titanium case and bracelet, sapphire crystal and 100-metre water resistance, and is currently listed in the UK at £1,395. It is not the only route in: Citizen’s GPS technology also appears further down the range, in watches that trade a chronograph or a dress bezel for a lower price without giving up the underlying satellite timekeeping.

Super Titanium is worth a word here too, since most Satellite Wave GPS cases are made from it. Citizen says its treated Super Titanium is five times harder and 40 per cent lighter than conventional stainless steel. That reads as a specification until you have worn a watch for twelve hours on a flight, walked through three airports with a cabin bag, and then spent the evening exploring a city on foot, at which point lighter starts to matter a great deal.

For a traveller, prioritising this kind of engineering over hand-finishing makes sense. A beautiful mechanical watch can be an exceptional travel companion, but it remains a mechanical watch: it may need winding or resetting, it may lose or gain a little time, and its power reserve may become a factor. These are simply characteristics of the object, not flaws. A Satellite Wave GPS watch is built to remove exactly those considerations. Consider a journey from London to New York, on to Los Angeles, and perhaps Tokyo or Singapore before returning home: the watch copes with a succession of entirely different environments while its wearer has enough else to think about, and that is the real appeal of it. There is something satisfying about looking down at your wrist after stepping off an aircraft and finding the watch has already accounted for the time change, without calculation, mental arithmetic or the need to check whether the phone has updated itself.

It is worth knowing which Citizen you are buying, since not every model in the catalogue carries GPS. Eco-Drive and radio control remain the foundation of watches lower in the range, and a world-time watch without satellite reception will still require the city to be selected manually. Satellite Wave GPS sits at the top of that ladder for a reason: it is the version of Citizen’s philosophy, built to ask as little as possible of its owner, taken as far as the technology currently allows.

Citizen makes an interesting occasional departure for Luxfanzine, since we are usually drawn to watches for what makes them extraordinary, while Citizen makes a strong case for appreciating what makes a watch useful. There is nothing wrong with choosing a watch for its movement, its finishing or the name on the dial; those are precisely the things that make mechanical watchmaking such a fascinating world. But there is also something to be said for recognising a piece of engineering built by people who have spent decades figuring out how to make their customers’ lives slightly easier, and Satellite Wave GPS is the clearest statement Citizen has made of that idea: a watch that draws its power from light, establishes its own position from satellites 20,000 kilometres overhead, and tells its wearer the correct time within three seconds of being asked. It does not have to cost a fortune, and it does not ask to be noticed. It is a watch for someone who has a plane to catch and, when they land, already knows what time it is.

Further information: https://www.citizenwatch-global.com/

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